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Breeding 1
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Breeding 2
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Part of our service at The Family Dog, Inc. is helping people find the right puppy for their lifestyle. We have interviewed hundreds of-breeders - from the truly superior to the sadly misinformed, from those concerned with the welfare of their breed to those concerned about the welfare of their bank account.

How does a novice locate a breeder who is producing quality pups when virtually everyone seems like an expert with impressive show wins, ribbons and mile-long pedigrees?  To help you find the truth in a confusing mass of information, let's take a look at some common myths.
 

Sarah collects dog ads that amuse her. One of our favorites from a local paper is "Rottweiler Pups, AKC all black, champion lines, tails done, shots & wormed, rare. $200." Rare indeed, the all black Rottie.

Inexperienced breeders, and some people who are downright untruthful, will try to sell off their genetic flukes as 'rare,' usually at a high price. 'Rare' dogs that we have seen include long-haired Akitas, oversized Dobermans and mismarked Great Danes. There is nothing wrong with these individuals as companions, but they are nor correct and certainly should not cost more.  It is up to you, as the buyer, to read everything you can about the breed you are interested in before you speak to a breeder or look at  pups. Not only will this give you better protection from the inexperienced or unethical breeder, but it will impress the good breeder, thus raising your chances of getting one of their precious pups.

Beware of the backyard breeder as well. Usually they have one or maybe two dogs that they love, but they do little or no showing, training or other canine activities. They do not belong to any breed or training clubs. They know little about hereditary health problems and don't get genetic clearances on their dogs before breeding. Few are familiar with the breed standard or the pedigree of their dogs.  They just decided to because "Molly is such a nice Oog." Molly may be sweet as pie, but if breeding were as simple as mating two nice dogs to get more nice dogs, the world would be full of only nice dogs. A friend called an ad that listed labrador puppies for sale. She spoke to the 'breeder,' saying that she wanted a companion, that she had no plans to show or work the dog, but that she did intend to train the dog, from puppy kindergarten through basic obedience, do plenty of socialization and would neuter the animal. The woman replied, "Oh, you want a fancy dog. Dogs don't need all that fancy stuff."

Look for breeders who actively work with their dogs in obedience, pet therapy, agility, lure coursing, herding or whatever. People who spend this kind of time with their dogs will know their temperaments. The same can seldom be said for pet stores or backyard breeders. A committed breeder competes in conformation (dog shows) with some success, tests breeding stock for genetic problems (see Myth #2) and can tell you about the dogs behind your pup (his grandparents, great-great-grandparents and so on). When Brian purchased his Rottweiler, Beau, from a respected breeder, he got written evaluations of three generations of ancestors, pictures, as well as a write-up of what his pup ought to have and not have. An impressive package. The old adage, "He who does not learn from history is destined to repeat it," applies to dog breeding as well as to life.

Conscientious breeders have a few dogs of the breed you're interested in, not some double-digit number of bitches they are actively using. Good breeders want you to come see their dogs. One Great Dane breeder said to Sarah, "Come and see my dogs? That's a huge inconvenience.

This is not a petting zoo!" Sarah thanked her and hung up. Anyone who is hesitant about allowing you to see his or her stock is not anyone with whom you want to deal.

Tips for choosing a knowledgeable breeder
1. Look for someone who has been in the breed for more than five years.
2. Select someone who offers information on the problems in the breed.
3. Select someone who asks many questions about you, your family, your schedule, why you want a dog and the type of puppy personality you feel would be suitable for your home.
4. Select someone who knows the pedigree of the pups and can tell you about grandparents and great-grandparents.
5. Ask if they are members in good standing of any breed or training clubs. The correct answer is "yes."
 

This is similar to the first myth but a bit more complex, so we'll treat it separately.  One challenge facing the novice puppy buyer is finding out what genetic problems exist in a breed. Many breed books do not cover this issue thoroughly. And some breeders, even longtime ones, may not know, or want to know, the problems in their breed.  Our favourite example of this was a cute little Jack Russell terrier female a friend purchased from an established breeder.

Very quickly we noticed the dog skipping, walking along raising one hind leg for a step or two, then putting it back down with no apparent pain or discomfort. This was a classic symptom of subluxated patellas (slipping kneecaps). The vet confirmed our suspicions and we called the breeder to let her know. "Oh, no," she said, "that's not a problem. All my dogs skip. They're very happy little dogs."

Since the books don't always tell you, and some breeders don't always know, how is a person supposed to learn what to watch for? One of the best ways is reading between the lines in the dog classifieds. Ads are an excellent source of genetic information and it's as easy as looking in a magazine to find it. As I write this I have a recent copy of a respected dog magazine open in front of me. Let's use the Golden Retriever as an example. First of all, the magazine has a full two columns in the classified section listing pups. Right there, you know it's a popular breed - and where there is popularity, there is always trouble. Genetic and temperament problems are often directly proportional to a breed's popularity.

Begin by scanning all the ads. Look for any mention of health issues. In Goldens, there are several ads mentioning OFA, CERF and 'heart clear.' OFA refers to the Orthopedic foundation for Animals. Dogs that are OFA clear are free of hip dysplasia. The mention of OFA in these ads signals you that this breed has hip problems, as so many of our breeds do. CERF is an eye clearance. Goldens have trouble with PRA (Progressive Retinal Atrophy) and all breeding stock should test clear for this. 'Heart clear' signals you that some lines are having trouble in this area too. Now you are better armed.

To be really well informed, phone the breeders who mention these things in their ads. It doesn't matter whether they are in Toronto or Vancouver, give them a ring. Pick their brains. Get their recommendations for good breeders in your area.  Once you know these problems exist, do not buy from anyone who does not test. You'll hear lots off excuses, from "My dogs don't have these problems, therefore I do not test," to ... "Those tests don't prove anything."

Well, to the first we say, if it is true that your dogs are clear, then why wouldn't you test and boast about the great results to anyone who'll listen? Genetically clear lines are worth bragging about! To the second complaint, about the worthiness of the tests, its probably true that they aren't a perfect system, but they are the best we have right now, and do some good if used correctly.

Genetic problems are the nightmare of all conscientious breeders. Breeders can do their best and test their stock, yet some hidden recessive gene(s) will still cause a problem - most likely a problem the breeder never dreamed of. That's breeding. Which is why working with someone who is experienced, careful and honest is your best defence. There is no 100-percent guarantee that a problem won't crop up, but why not get the best odds you can from the start.

Tips for attempting to avoid genetic problems
1. Read ads and list all the health issues mentioned in them.
2. Call the breeders who do test their stock for genetic problems and ask them questions.
3. Ask for copies of the test results from the breeders in whom you're interested.
4. Consider pups only from parents who have both cleared the tests. The more generations that have tested clear, the better your chances of avoiding a problem.
5. Don't be blinded by trophies, ribbons or big wins. No tests, no puppy - no exceptions.
 

Although we're sure that people enter into breeding full-time with the best of intentions, we have yet to meet one who does as good a job as the dedicated part-timer. Why? Economics. When litters are your livelihood, it is hard to wait two full years for all the clearances before you breed a bitch. When a pup is part of a mortgage payment, it is hard to cull the one that's got some problems - instead, it's decided "he'll make a fine pet." Since so many pups must be produced each year to survive financially, bitches that are a 'little flighty' are bred. "I didn't get a chance to socialize her" is the standard refrain. "She'd be fine if I had more time." Maybe, maybe not. We've learned the hard way that temperment seems more inheritable than we used to think.  How can you tell, looking at a quivering adult dog, what is nature (inherited) and is nurture (environment)? Why take a chance? Profit-motivated breeders rarely screne all their dogs genetically.  Maybe they have screened one or two.  You need to ask, "Have the dam and sire of these pups been tested?  May I see the test results?" Then you'll start hearing everything from, "Well, I never did get around to it..." to "No one in her line has ever had..." Say thank you and hang up.

Profit-motivated breeders will often brag about one or two dogs in their kennel. Ask if they bred the dog. Ask if they put the championship titles on the dog.  Many folks start a line with a titled dog that they purchased. In some breeds, imported dogs are flaunted as proof of breeding excellence. We've seen some titled imported dogs who have sired many health problems. Keep in mind that people in other countries are not crazy, and few will sell their really good breeding dogs at any price. This is particularly prevalent in the protection breeds like German Shepherds and Rottweilers.

Buying a good dog is not the same thing as breeding one. If you're impressed with that one dog, find out where he came from and go there. Those people produced him, not this breeder.

Watch out for places that advertise themselves as "The Home of.. the Top-winning... of All Time!" It's likely they didn't breed the dog and even more likely that he achieved his fame 20-some years ago. What have these breeders done lately? Other kennels list "OFA champions at stud", leading the novice to think, this breeder is concerned about hips. Yet much of their breeding stock is not OFA clear. Be careful! Remember, if breeders are living off their dogs, they want to make a sale. While many won't outright lie, they also won't volunteer information that you don't ask for. The best advice is stay clear.

Breeding a good dog is difficult; raising a good puppy is even harder. If a breeder has four or five litters at any one time, year round, each pup is not getting the individual care and daily attention it needs to be the best, most well-adjtlsted Companion possible. Once dogs go from beloved hobby to prime income source, priorities always change.

Look instead for someone who breeds dogs as a serious hobby. Such breeders show their animals. They may also work them in obedience or field, or are proud of dogs from their breeding that are being worked. They ask you lots of questions and are eager to tell you about their breed, their dogs and their breeding program. The really good ones will not only admit to problems in the breed, but will tell you how they are combating those problems.

Tips for recognizing the profit-focused breeder.
1. They make their living from selling dogs.
2. They don't ask you many questions.
3. They do not test their dogs for genetic problems.
4. Price comes up early in the conversation - they mention it first.
5. They will sell to anyone,   Visa or MasterCard accepted!
 

Sadly, not always so. Our favourice breedcr bIoopcr involves someone who was training a litter of American Eskimo pups to use bed sheets as a toilet ("because newsprint made them so dirty!"). Consequently, no bed was safe, no laundry pile unsullied this client's home.

There are many breeders who educate themselves constantly, learn whatever they can and do an excellent job with their dogs - but not everyone. Ask them about their set-up. Where do the puppies live, sleep and play?  Have they been introduced to a crate, socialized, handled?

Good breeders have their pups in with them at least part of the day to get used, to household noises and activities. Good breeders are aware of, and talk to you about the importance of socialization, proper handling and training. Good breeders do not let their pups go before seven weeks of age. They will also help you pick the right pup for you, the one they think will work in your circumstances. Some breeders even offer you rebates for training your dog.

Selecting a breeder knowledgeable about behaviour
1. Look for someone who brings up socialization and early training themselves.
2. Choose a breeder who raises the pups in his or her home.
3. Select someone who actively assists you in choosing the right puppy.
4. Do not overlook a good breeder because you have a difference of opinion about training technique - that's all part of the game, The fact that a breeder has a strong opinion about training is an excellent sign.  But training is not abuse; skip folks who routinely whack their dogs.
5. Accept no excuses for shyness or aggression in a pup.
 

All breeders like the temperament they breed in their dogs, but that does not mean the temperament is right for you. When asking any question of a breeder, try to make it as open-ended as possible. If you say, "I want a calm, well-socialized pup. Do you have one?", you will soon discover that, Io and behold, everyone seems to have just the pup you're looking for. Instead ask, "What kind of temperament do you breed for?" Then listen. Get the breeder to describe it in some detail. Don't fall for the "Well, what are you looking for?" question. Have them tell you what they have, then decide if that's what you're looking for. Try not to ask a question that points all too clearly to the answer you want.

Keep in mind that a good temperament for the show ring is outgoing, gutsy, bold, self-confident, arrogant and 'up' all the time. A good hunting dog temperament may be highly energetic, athletic, bold and eager-to-please - a dog that never says never. As one field-focussed Labrador breeder told a friend, "Yeah, Sure, these Pups will be mellow. Their mom and dad are so mellow, I even let them in the house!"

A good temperament for Schutzhund (an obedience/protection sport) may be supremely confident, intelligent, suspicious, bold and physically tough. Schutzhund folks often take great pride in a pup that is grabbing your pant leg at 10 weeks of age and fighting you for it - a bit much in the average household.  If a calm, quiet, sweet pup who will be good with the kids is your goal, then do not necessarily be impressed by walls of ribbons and shelves of trophies. Those are wonderful marks of achievement, but they do not prove the dog is right for you.

We wish that show ring success were a good measure of temperament - it sure would make our job easier. But it's not. We've been snapped at by several champions. The ability to trot around a ring and look good bears no relation to the ability to live in your home as a loving, sane family member.

For some breeders, 'pet quality' puppies are the unfortunate by-product of their quest for the ideal show champion. This is their right - but it does not mean a breeder is right for you.  The vast majority of pups produced are not show quality (there's some minor physical imperfection which has nothing to do with how good a pet they'll be). A breeder's goal should be first to produce a sound, sane pup, then work on the extras for a successful show dog.  Few enough people are able to achieve the first goal, yet many are pursuing the second - as first priority.

The breeder of Sarah's Australian Shepherd has been at this for over 10 years and knows almost every one of the pups she's produced by name, where they are living and how they are doing. She has a cherished collection of famiily pictures from all over the country and speaks with as much pride about the beloved family pet on the shores of Maine as her new champion on the west coast.  All her breeding stock has been certified by OFA and CERF.  Her dogs rotate between large clean outdoor runs and the end of her bed. She has one or two litters a year and her pups are raised in her kitchen.  She sends out video updates of her litters to interested parties.  People wait years for one of her dogs. People like her are rare but they're worth finding!

Tips for getting the temperament you want:
1. Know what you want before you call the breeder.
2. Ask open-ended questions and then listen.
3. Ask if the breeder participates in any activities. Look for multiple interest - this is almost always a good sign.
4. Meet the dogs. If you like the sire you'll probably like the Pup.
5. Look for someone as proud of the pet pups as the show dogs.
 

The conscientious ones will. Reputable breeders prepare for unforeseen circumstances by offering written guarantees. The good ones have the welfare of their their dog as their top priority; they will take the dog back- if the new home isn't working out. They will assist you with advice in the event of health problems. They are generally the helpful, supportive experts that you need and paid for when you purchased the pup.

And that purchase should be accompanied by paperwork including a sales contract.  There should be a replacement clause in the contract.

It should allow you a week or so to see if you like the pup. If a veterinarian says there is a problem or if you just don't 'match' with the pup, you should be able to return it for a refund or another pup - your choice. Recently we did this with a cute little female that we just didn't like.  Nothing wrong with her, just not our kind of dog. The breeder took her right back, without complaint, and we got a put from her next litter.  So it should be.

The breeder may ask that you sign a non-breeding agreement, so any pups from your dog would be ineligible for registration. This is to protect the breeder, and the breed - but neutering is best anyway.

If you encounter a breeder who's 'never had a problem' and therefore does not have a guarantee in writing, say thank you and leave. Surely if that were true, a written guarantee would be no problem at all. As with many agreements, a handshake is not enough.

There are the things no contract can provide. When one of my pups was diagnosed as having a problem, my breeder cried on the phone with me. Offered to pay for more tests. Offered a replacement pup if the problem continued. Offered to take the pup back immediately. It turned out the vet had made a mistake. But that breeder would have been there for me, and for her puppy, if I had needed her. The good ones are.

Tips for avoiding future problems.

1. Ask about the return policy.
2. Get everything in writing. Although there are emotional strings attached, the purchase of a puppy is a business transaction. The breeder agrees to do this, YOU, agree to do that. Many misunderstandings can be avoided if everything is discussed, agreed upon, put in writing and signed.
3. Do not accept a guarantee that requires the return or euthanasia of your dog before it goes into effect.
4. Look for a spay/neuter condition. It's an excellent sign.
5. Pick someone you like.

We hope we've given you a few ideas about how to shop for a pup. Keep your wits about you - don't let your excitement or a puppy's appeal get in the way of your better judgement.  Trust your instincts and do your homework.  Finding the right pup may take a while, but it is alwys worth the trouble.

Brian Kilcommons and Sarah Wilson have trained hundreds of dogs and owners.  They operate The Family Dog, Inc, in New york state and are the authors of the best-selling Good Owners, Great Dogs.